Tocllaraju and Chopicalqui Expedition: The Seismic Challenge in Peru

A 13-day technical expedition in Peru designed for experienced mountaineers seeking to summit Tocllaraju (6,038 m) and Chopicalqui (6,354 m).. Includes prior acclimatization in the Urus and complete logistics in the Cordillera Blanca..

Reserve your spot

June to August (Andean winter).

Difficult

13 Days

Master the technique and altitude in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca with expert guides.

Embark on an unprecedented high mountain adventure on the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, a sanctuary for mountaineering worldwide. This expedition is meticulously designed for mountaineers who already have previous altitude experience and wish to hone their skills in glacier transit and technical ice climbing.. Unlike other routes, this program offers a logical and safe progression, starting with the acclimatization ascent to the Urus snow-capped mountain (5,420 m) to prepare the body for major objectives.

The first major milestone is the Nevado Tocllaraju (6,038 m), a perfect ice pyramid that will test your technique in a spectacular alpine environment.. After a necessary rest in the city of Huaraz, we will travel to the legendary Quebrada de Llanganuco.. There, we will face the approach to the Chopicalqui (6,354 m), a colossus that offers all the "condiments" of the great expeditions: camps on moraine, overnight stays on glacier and a demanding summit day that rewards you with some of the most impressive views of the Andes..

At Aconcagua Experiences, We understand that safety and logistics are the pillars of a successful expedition. For this reason, we have bilingual guides, support of porters for common equipment and a planning that includes extra days to ensure the best climate and acclimatization window.. Come and experience the mysticism of the Peruvian mountains with the peace of mind of being supported by mountain professionals..

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( From start to summit )

Route planning

Day 1: Meeting in Huaraz and Preparation

Reception in the city of Huaraz. We will conduct the official briefing of the expedition, review the personal equipment of each member and finalize the logistical details for the start of the adventure..

Day 2: Transfer to Pashpa and hike to Quebrada de Ishinca (4,350 masl).

Transfer by vehicle to the town of Pashpa. There we will load our equipment on donkeys to start a 4 to 5 hour hike through quenual forests to the base camp of the Quebrada de Ishinca..

Day 3: Acclimatization ascent to Nevado Urus (5,420 m.a.s.l.)

A fundamental day to adapt to the altitude. We will ascend through rocky terrain and a small glacier to the summit of Urus. It is a day of 8 to 10 hours that will allow us to evaluate our physical condition prior to the major objectives..

Day 4: Rest and Recovery Day

Relaxation day at Ishinca base camp. We will take the opportunity to hydrate well, feed ourselves and prepare our loads for the ascent to Tocllaraju..

Day 5: Ascent to Tocllaraju Moraine Camp (5,100 m.a.s.l.)

We leave the comfort of the base to go up to the high country. A 5-hour hike will leave us at the base of the glacier, in a strategic position for the summit attack..

Day 6: Summit of Nevado Tocllaraju (6,038 masl) and descent to the base.

Attack to the summit by the northwest ridge. We will overcome rimayas and technical snow/ice slopes. After reaching the summit and enjoying the view, we will dismantle the high camp and return to base camp in an intense day of 12 to 14 hours..

Day 7: Return to Huaraz

We walk down to Pashpa, where the transfer awaits us to take us back to civilization and enjoy a comforting shower in Huaraz..

Day 8: Rest in Huaraz

Free day to recover energy, enjoy the local gastronomy and prepare the equipment for the second stage of the expedition: the Chopicalqui..

Day 9: Llanganuco Gorge and Chopicalqui Moraine Camp (4,800 m.a.s.l.)

Private transfer to the spectacular Quebrada de Llanganuco. We started the 5-hour approach to the first camp on the Chopicalqui moraine..

Day 10: Ascent to Camp 1 on the Glacier (5,600 m.a.s.l.)

Strategic movement towards the glacier. In about 3 to 4 hours of ice walking, we will establish Camp 1, gaining the necessary altitude for the final attempt..

Day 11: Summit attempt to Chopicalqui (6,354 m.a.s.l.)

The ultimate challenge. We will ascend the southwest ridge, facing technical sections and the demands of the altitude. After reaching the summit of this colossus, we will descend again to the moraine field..

Day 12: Descent to Llanganuco and Transfer to Huaraz

Final downhill stretch to the road in Llanganuco, where the vehicle will take us back to Huaraz for our farewell dinner..

Day 13: Extra Day for Weather or Acclimatization

We have a strategic reserve day. This day will be used in case of adverse weather conditions or if the group requires more acclimatization time during the expedition..

( added to your experience )

Expedition coverage

Services included

Bilingual and duly qualified mountain guides.
Private Transfers: Huaraz-Pashpa-Huaraz and Huaraz-Llanganuco-Huaraz.
Full board during the expedition days in the mountains.
Donkeys to transport loads to Ishinca base camp (round trip)..
Porters for the transportation of group/common equipment on the Chopicalqui expedition..
Complete kitchen equipment (heaters, crockery and utensils).
High mountain tents and climbing equipment in common use.

Services not included

Official ascent permit to Huascaran National Park.
Lodging and meals in the city of Huaraz.
Technical equipment and personal clothing.
Service of personal porters in the Chopicalqui stage.

Price

1 person: USD 4,600
2-3 people: USD 3,000
4 or more people: USD 2,580

( Everything you need to know )

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to acclimatize to the altitude?

Although the program is designed for progressive acclimatization, we recommend arriving in Huaraz a couple of days before the official start of the program to optimize the body's adaptation to the altitude..

Is it better to bring a credit card or cash to Peru?

Carrying cash is recommended. Although cards are accepted in many stores, ATMs usually have low daily withdrawal limits. In addition, it is very easy to exchange foreign currency into Peruvian soles in Huaraz..

How cold is it in the mountains of Peru?

Being glaciers in temperate zones, temperatures are usually less extreme than at similar altitudes in the Southern Andes (as in Aconcagua). However, the high mountain climate should never be underestimated..

How do I get from Lima to Huaraz?

There are daily flights from Lima to Huaraz for a quick connection. There is also the option of the bus line, which makes a very comfortable journey of approximately 8 hours..

What specific technical equipment do I need for seismic?

You will need double mountain boots, crampons, technical ice axes (for the Tocllaraju), harness, helmet and layered clothing system for sub-zero temperatures. Common equipment (ropes, stakes, etc.) is provided by us..

Do I need mountain health insurance?

Yes, it is mandatory to have insurance covering high mountain activities, rescue and medical evacuation at over 6,000 meters above sea level to participate in this expedition.

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