SELF-GUIDED CERRO MERCEDARIO EXPEDITION

A self-guided adventure to climb the Mercedario (6,720 m), the second highest peak in South America, with a focus on progressive acclimatization and self-sufficiency in high altitude.

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Summer

Easy

15 days

Self-managed Mercedario: Ascent to the Andean Giant of 6,720 m (20,000 ft)

The Mercedario Autogestivo expedition is a unique high mountain experience that takes participants through breathtaking and challenging landscapes of the Andean Cordillera. With a carefully planned 15-day itinerary, adventurers gradually acclimatize to the extreme altitude of 6,720 meters, ensuring maximum safety and increasing the chances of success on the summit of the second highest peak in South America.

The trip includes the accompaniment of certified mountain guides, private transfers from Mendoza to the starting point in Laguna Blanca, and the use of mules to transport heavy loads during the approach and descent. This allows participants to concentrate on the physical and mental challenge of the ascent, while enjoying the spectacular scenery of the San Juan foothills and the high Andean mountains.

The expedition is designed for mountaineers with previous experience who seek a greater challenge, offering strategically placed acclimatization days, progressive portages and extra days foreseen for climatic contingencies, guaranteeing a safe and successful experience in one of the most emblematic mountains of the Andes.

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( From start to summit )

Route planning

Day 1: Meeting in Mendoza - Welcome and Preparation

We will meet in the city of Mendoza, the starting point of all the great Andean expeditions. We will have a briefing where the guide will go over every detail of the itinerary, answer questions and do a thorough check of the personal and collective equipment. This first meeting is essential to get to know each other as a group and make sure we are all ready for the adventure that awaits us in the Mercedario.

Day 2: Transfer to Barreal and Hike to Piedras Coloradas Camp (3,600 m)

In the morning, we set off in a private transfer to Barreal, in the province of San Juan, enjoying the scenery of the foothills and the San Juan desert. From Barreal, we take a mountain road suitable only for 4x4 vehicles to Laguna Blanca, where we begin our trek. There, mules await us to carry our heavy luggage. We hike for about 4 hours through breathtaking landscapes until we reach the Piedras Coloradas campsite, at an elevation of 3,600 meters. First night in a tent, surrounded by pristine nature.

Day 3: Ascent to Cuesta Blanca Camp (4,400 m)

After an energizing breakfast, we break camp and begin the ascent to Cuesta Blanca, at 4,400 meters. The hike takes several hours, and our gear is carried by mules, allowing us to pack only the essentials in our backpacks. We traverse high-mountain landscapes, with unique panoramic views of the mountain range. We set up at the new camp and rest in two-person tents, beginning our acclimatization process.

Day 4: Rest and Acclimatization in Cuesta Blanca

A day dedicated to rest, hydration, and practicing mountaineering techniques. We’ll use this time to gradually acclimate to the altitude and thoroughly check our personal gear. This is essential for preparing our bodies for the extreme altitudes we’ll face in the coming days.

Day 5: Carrying Gear to Pirca de Indios (5,200 m) and Return

We made our first trip carrying equipment and food to Pirca de Indios, at an altitude of 5,200 meters, and returned to Cuesta Blanca for the night. This activity is crucial for gradual acclimatization and to prepare for our next higher camp. The effort of carrying the supplies helps the body adapt to the lower oxygen concentration.

Day 6: Ascent to Camp Pirca de Indios (5,200 m)

We climb with our personal gear to Pirca de Indios, where we find the equipment that was carried up the day before. We set up camp at 5,200 meters, an important step in our acclimatization for the summit of Mercedario.

Day 7: Rest and Acclimatization at Pirca de Indios

A rest and acclimatization day in the solitude of the high mountains. It’s the perfect opportunity to recharge our batteries, stay properly hydrated, and allow our bodies to fully adjust to the altitude of 5,200 meters before continuing the ascent.

Day 8: Portage and Acclimatization at La Hoyada (5,700 m)

Second major portage to La Hoyada, at an elevation of 5,700 meters, which will serve as our base camp for the summit attempt. After the portage, we return to Pirca de Indios for the night, completing another essential acclimatization cycle.

Day 9: Ascent and Overnight Stay at La Hoyada (5,700 m)

We’ll ascend to La Hoyada with our personal gear and set up our highest base camp. At 5,700 meters, this will be our starting point for the summit attempt. The night at this camp is crucial for our final preparations.

Day 10: Rest Day and Final Acclimatization at La Hoyada

A day set aside for rest, a thorough check of our summit gear, and mental preparation for the big challenge. We checked the weather conditions and finalized the details for the summit attempt the following day.

Day 11: Summit Day at El Mercedario (6,720 m)

The big day! We set out very early in the morning for the final ascent to Mercedario. We reached an altitude of 6,720 meters, the second-highest peak in South America. After enjoying the spectacular views and the satisfaction of our achievement, we began the descent back to La Hoyada to spend the night.

Day 12: Descent to Cuesta Blanca Camp

We begin the gradual descent toward the lower camps. We head down to Cuesta Blanca, where mules help us carry our gear. It’s a relaxing day after the exertion of the summit push, allowing us to enjoy the higher oxygen levels.

Day 13: Return to Laguna Blanca and Transfer to Mendoza

Final hike to Laguna Blanca, where our return transportation will be waiting for us. Return trip to Mendoza to celebrate the success of the expedition and enjoy a well-deserved shower and hot meal in the city.

Day 14: Extra Day Due to Adverse Weather Conditions

An extra day has been scheduled to account for potential delays due to adverse weather conditions or the need for extended acclimatization. High-altitude mountaineering requires flexibility, and this extra day ensures that we can complete the expedition safely.

Day 15: Extra Day for Contingencies or Acclimatization

An additional contingency day to ensure the success and safety of the expedition. It can be used for further acclimatization, adverse weather conditions, or any unforeseen circumstances that require flexibility in the itinerary.

( added to your experience )

Expedition coverage

Services included

Certified and professional guides
You will be accompanied at all times by certified guides who are experts in high-altitude mountaineering and have in-depth knowledge of the Mercedario region. They provide safety, guidance, and leadership throughout the entire expedition.

Private Transfers: Barreal – Laguna Blanca – Barreal
This includes a private transfer from the town of Barreal to Laguna Blanca and back, ensuring comfort and efficient logistics for the journey to and from the mountain.

Pack Mules: Laguna Blanca – Cuesta Blanca (Round Trip)
Heavy loads were transported by mules between Laguna Blanca and Cuesta Blanca at the start and end of the expedition, allowing us to reduce the physical strain on key sections and focus on the ascent.

Full board for the entire expedition
All meals are included (breakfast, lunch, dinner, and energy snacks), specially designed to meet the demands of high-altitude mountaineering and tailored to the expedition’s caloric needs.

Shared sleeping tents (2 people)
Provision of high-altitude tents to ensure rest and shelter from adverse conditions, guaranteeing comfort and safety at all campsites.

Cookware and kitchen utensils
All the equipment you need for cooking at high altitudes, including stoves, pots, and utensils, so you can cook and eat properly at each campsite.

Services not included

Lodging and meals in Mendoza
Accommodations and meals in the city of Mendoza before or after the expedition are not included. Each participant must arrange these services on their own.

Clothing and personal equipment
Each participant must bring their own mountaineering gear, footwear, sleeping bag, backpack, trekking poles, headlamp, crampons, ice axe, and any personal items needed for the expedition.

Personal and Medical Insurance
We recommend that you have personal accident, rescue, and medical assistance insurance. This is not included in the service, and it is the responsibility of each participant to arrange it.

Miscellaneous expenses or personal expenses
Personal expenses such as drinks, additional snacks, tips, and any other expenses not included in the detailed itinerary are not covered.

Price

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( Everything you need to know )

Frequently Asked Questions

What does the Mercedario Autogestivo service include?

The service includes a certified mountain guide for the entire expedition, private round-trip transportation from Mendoza to Barreal and Laguna Blanca, pack animals to carry heavy loads during the trekking and ascent sections, high-altitude double tents for all camps, comprehensive pre-trip briefing with an informational talk and equipment check, and extra days set aside for weather contingencies.

What personal gear do I need to bring for the Mercedario?

You must bring a complete set of high-altitude mountaineering gear, including: a sleeping bag rated for extreme temperatures (-20°C), technical mountain clothing in layers, high-altitude mountaineering boots, crampons, an ice axe, a harness, a helmet, glacier goggles, high-SPF sunscreen, a 60-70-liter backpack, and personal cooking gear. ProporWe will provide a detailed list of all the equipment after confirmation.

What is the acclimatization process like during the Mercedario expedition?

The 15-day itinerary is designed to allow for gradual and safe acclimatization. It includes strategic rest days at Cuesta Blanca (4,400 m), Pirca de Indios (5,200 m), and La Hoyada (5,700 m), equipment hauls to higher altitudes followed by returning to sleep at lower elevations (the ‘climb high, sleep low’ technique), and gradual ascents that allow the body to adapt properly to extreme altitudes.

What happens if the weather conditions are bad at El Mercedario?

We have included two extra days (days 14 and 15) specifically to accommodate unfavorable weather conditions or the need for extended acclimatization. El Mercedario is known for its extreme conditions, so flexibility in the itinerary is essential. Our expert guide will make the necessary safety decisions and adjust the plan according to conditions.

Is prior high-mountain experience necessary for the Mercedario?

Yes, significant prior high-altitude mountaineering experience and excellent physical fitness are required. We recommend that you have completed ascents of mountains at least 5,000 meters high, have experience using crampons and an ice axe, and have a basic understanding of mountaineering techniques. El Mercedario is the second-highest peak in South America and presents considerable technical and physical challenges.

When is the best time to climb El Mercedario?

The best time to visit is from December to March (southern hemisphere summer), when conditions are more stable, though still extreme. During this period, there are more hours of sunlight, milder temperatures, and better access to the higher camps. However, the weather in the Mercedario can be unpredictable at any time of year.

What are the differences between the Mercedario and Aconcagua?

El Mercedario (6,720 m) is technically more challenging than Aconcagua, with more complex terrain and more extreme conditions. It requires greater technical mountaineering experience, access is more remote from San Juan, and there is less rescue infrastructure. It is considered a stepping stone toward even more technical mountains, such as the 8,000-meter peaks of the Himalayas.

What is not included in the service?

Does not include personal mountaineering gear, meals during the expedition (each participant is responsible for their own meals), medical and high-altitude rescue insurance (mandatory and essential), personal expenses and tips, flights or transfers to Mendoza, and accommodations in Mendoza before and after the expedition.

Is there an age limit for participating in the Mercedario expedition?

There is no strict age limit, but excellent physical condition and verifiable prior experience are required. We evaluate each case individually, taking into account mountaineering experience, current physical condition, and technical ability. El Mercedario demands the highest level of physical and mental preparedness.

What are the communication logistics like during the expedition?

The guide carries satellite communication equipment for emergencies. There is no cell phone service in the high mountains of Mercedario. Regular communication is maintained with base camp to report on progress and conditions. Families receive periodic updates on the group’s status during the expedition.