Glaciar de los Polacos Expedition: The Technical Challenge of Aconcagua
Experience the most challenging and technical Aconcagua expedition through the Glaciar de los Polacos. This route, chosen by mountaineers from around the world, is excellent preparation for the great Himalayan peaks and a true test of your limits. Enjoy a 19 days journey in the high mountains, surrounded by glaciers, ice walls and the wildest nature of the Andes.
Come experience the most spectacular and demanding route in Aconcagua Park, guided by experts
The Glaciar de los Polacos expedition is the ideal adventure for those seeking a true high-mountain challenge. This route, considered the most technical and spectacular on Aconcagua, combines long trekking days, glacier crossings, ascents with fixed ropes and incredibly wild landscapes.
During 19 days, you will traverse the Vacas Valley and the Relincho Gorge, cross rivers on horseback and reach the remote base camp of Plaza Argentina, a meeting point for international expeditions. The journey to the summit involves nights at high camps, glacier practice sessions and the use of technical equipment under expert guide supervision.
The summit day is an unforgettable experience: the Glaciar de los Polacos route demands physical effort, technical knowledge and determination, but the views from the summit of the roof of the Americas are incomparable. The return is via the Normal Route, giving you the complete Aconcagua experience.
This expedition is ideal for those who already have mountain experience and seek perfect acclimatization for greater challenges, such as the Himalayas. All logistical and safety aspects are covered: from transfers and accommodation in Mendoza to mules, porters and base camp services with showers, wi-fi and VHF communications.
Join a small group, experience mountain camaraderie and surpass your own limits with the peace of mind of having a professional team passionate about adventure.
( From start to summit )
Route planning
Day 1: Welcome and Preparations in Mendoza
Arrival in Mendoza, meet the team and attend an expedition briefing. We carry out a complete gear check, renting or adjusting whatever is needed for the mountain. This day is key to finalizing details and resolving questions before the adventure.
Day 2: Start of the Trek: From Mendoza to Pampa de Leñas
Private transfer to Punta de Vacas, where we begin the approach trek. We leave the loads for the mules and set off on a 4 to 5-hour hike through the beautiful valley, until we reach our first camp at Pampa de Leñas (2,950 masl). Night under the Andean stars.
Day 3: Advance through the Vacas Valley: Toward Casa de Piedra
After a restorative breakfast, we prepare the loads for the mules again and continue the ascent through the Vacas gorge. The 6 to 7-hour day takes us through imposing landscapes to the Casa de Piedra (3,250 masl), our second acclimatization point.
Day 4: Entering the Relincho Gorge and Arrival at Plaza Argentina
Today we cross the Vacas River on horseback, guided by local muleteers, and enter the spectacular Relincho Gorge. After 5 to 7 hours of hiking, we arrive at Plaza Argentina base camp (4,200 masl), an international meeting point for expeditions.
Day 5: Rest and Preparations at Plaza Argentina
A well-deserved rest day to aid acclimatization. We use the time to organize gear and plan the load carries and ascents of the coming days. We enjoy the services and comforts of base camp.
Day 6: Load Carry and Acclimatization: Ascent to Camp 1
We carry out a load carry to Camp 1 (4,900 masl), carrying part of the personal gear and food. This day serves the dual purpose of gaining altitude and acclimatizing. After 4 to 6 hours of activity, we return to Plaza Argentina for a good rest.
Day 7: Final Preparations and Rest at Plaza Argentina
Rest and final organization day. We prepare everything to definitively leave base camp and begin the high-altitude route. It is our last night at Plaza Argentina.
Day 8: Ascent to Camp 1: First High Camp
After breakfast, we set off on the ascent to Camp 1, setting up and resting to aid adaptation. The effort is rewarded with incomparable views and the silence of the high mountain.
Day 9: Load Carry to Camp 2: Overcoming New Challenges
Today we carry gear to Camp 2 (5,500 masl, former Guanaco Camp 3), and return to sleep at Camp 1. The 5 to 7-hour round trip strengthens our acclimatization and logistics.
Day 10: Ascent and Night at Camp 2
We ascend again to Camp 2, this time to stay. We set up and prepare for the most demanding days of the expedition.
Day 11: Rest and Technical Practice on Glacier
Active rest day at Camp 2. We use the time to practice crampon use and basic ice techniques on nearby glaciers, essential for safety in the upcoming sections.
Day 12: Load Carry to Camp 3 (Glaciar de los Polacos)
Intense day: we carry gear to Field 3 (5,850 masl), located at the foot of the Glaciar de los Polacos, and return to sleep at Camp 2. The journey demands 6 to 8 hours, testing our endurance and determination.
Day 13: Rest and Strategy at Camp 2
Rest day and review of the summit strategy. We check technical equipment and monitor the weather forecast to choose the best time to ascend.
Day 14: Final Ascent to Camp 3
We definitively ascend to Field 3, at the base of the glacier. We organize the camp and rest, ready for the long-awaited summit day.
Day 15: Summit Day: Technical Ascent of Aconcagua
We start before dawn, ascending the Glaciar de los Polacos using fixed ropes on the steepest slopes. After reaching the Aconcagua summit (6,962 masl), we descend to Cólera Camp (5,970 masl), where our porters await with camp set up. A 10 to 14-hour day of effort and emotion.
Day 16: Descent to Plaza de Mulas
We descend from Cólera Camp to the base camp of Plaza de Mulas (4,370 masl). A day of approximately 4 hours, ideal for celebrating and beginning to rest after the feat.
Day 17: Return to the Valley and Transfer to Mendoza
The final trek takes us through the extensive Horcones Valley to the Aconcagua Park exit (2,900 masl). After about 8 hours of hiking, a private transfer picks us up to return to Mendoza city. Hotel night and celebration of success.
Days 18 and 19: Extra Days: Buffer for Acclimatization or Bad Weather
These additional days are reserved for adverse weather conditions or the need for greater acclimatization, ensuring maximum safety and chances of summit success.
( added to your experience )
Expedition coverage
Services included
- 2 hotel nights in Mendoza (double rooms, NH hotel ****), one night at the beginning and one night at the end of the expedition, for your maximum comfort before and after the adventure.
- Private and authorized transfers from and to the airport and all the starting and ending points of the trek, so that you only have to worry about enjoying the experience.
- Mules for personal and expedition loads to Plaza de Mulas, allowing you to walk with a light backpack during the approach.
- Porters for tents and cooking equipment in high altitude camps, ensuring efficient logistics and your best rest.
- Full board throughout the mountainAll meals included during the expedition, carefully planned for optimal nutrition at altitude.
- Licensed, bilingual and experienced guides, committed to your safety and the success of the expedition.
- Full base camp in Confluencia and Plaza de Mulas, with services of showers and wi-fi for your comfort and connectivity.
- VHF communication in the mountains for emergencies and permanent coordination.
- Common expedition equipment: carpas de alta montaña para 2 personas, cocinas, utensilios y todos los elementos técnicos grupales.
- Dining tents at altitude (excepto en Campo 1), para resguardarte del clima y compartir momentos con el grupo.
- Asesoramiento y apoyo logístico antes y durante el viaje: recomendaciones sobre equipo personal, permisos y preparación física.
- Asistencia permanente del equipo organizador para resolver cualquier imprevisto.
Services not included
- Mandatory evacuation insurance (requerido por el Parque Aconcagua; obligatorio para extranjeros, opcional para argentinos), y seguro de cancelación o asistencia médica.
- Personal equipment and clothing, así como cualquier compra, alquiler o reparación de material individual.
- climbing permit otorgado por el Parque Provincial Aconcagua (obligatorio para ingresar y ascender).
- personal porters para equipo individual (pueden contratarse opcionalmente según necesidad o preferencia).
- Costos derivados de abandono o separación del grupo: si un participante debe abandonar la expedición por cualquier motivo, los gastos adicionales (mulas, transportes, guías, hoteles, etc.) son responsabilidad del participante.
- Meals and drinks in Mendoza, antes o después de la expedición principal.
- Servicios de habitación, lavandería, bebidas, llamadas telefónicas y otros ítems personales en Mendoza o en la montaña.
- Gastos médicos, evacuación aérea o terrestre, internación hospitalaria y medicamentos de cualquier tipo.
- Cualquier otro servicio no mencionado como incluido en este listado.
Price
- 1 person: usd 15.000
- 2-3 people: usd 9400 cada uno
- 5-7 people: usd 8200 cada uno
- 8-9 people: usd 7500 cada uno
( Everything you need to know )
Frequently Asked Questions
¿Cómo nos aseguramos en el glaciar?
Todos los años se instalan cuerdas fijas en el glaciar, lo que nos permite escalar con mayor seguridad utilizando piolet y jumar. Nuestros guías te instruirán en el uso de este material técnico para que avances con confianza en los tramos más exigentes.
¿Qué necesito saber sobre el permiso de ascenso?
The permiso de ascenso es obligatorio y lo otorga el Parque Provincial Aconcagua. Los precios varían según la ruta, la fecha (temporada alta o baja) y la nacionalidad. En los últimos años, el parque ofrece preventa con importantes descuentos si se gestiona el permiso antes de julio. Nosotros te asesoramos durante todo el proceso.
How heavy is the backpack during the expedition?
En el approach trek, la mochila no debería superar los 6 kg, ya que solo llevamos lo indispensable (almuerzo, abrigo, cámara). A partir del campamento base, el peso promedio es de 18 kg, ya que transportamos nuestro equipamiento personal necesario para los días de altura.
¿Qué cubren los porteadores y puedo contratar porteadores personales?
The included porters se encargan del equipo de expedición, como carpas y cocina. Si lo deseas, puedes contratar porteadores personales para tu equipo individual en cualquier momento de la expedición, ya sea para todos los trayectos o para algún campamento específico.
¿Cuál es el tamaño de los grupos y el ratio guía/cliente?
En nuestras expediciones abiertas trabajamos con grupos reducidos de hasta 9 personas, with a guía cada 3 participantes. También podés optar por una expedición privada, adaptada a tu grupo.
What is summit day like?
The summit day es exigente y técnico. Se tarda entre 7 y 9 horas en ascender desde el campo 3 (5.930 msnm) hasta la cima, y entre 4 y 6 horas en el descenso al campamento Cólera. Se inicia la marcha alrededor de las 5 am, dependiendo de las condiciones y del grupo.
What happens if I have to abandon the expedition?
Si, por cualquier motivo, tenés que abandonar la expedición, los gastos adicionales (mulas, transportes, guías, hoteles, etc.) corren por tu cuenta. Recomendamos contar con un cancellation and evacuation insurance para evitar imprevistos.
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